Sicily's Rubbish...

I found the parts of Sicily I visited to be exemplary as far as cleanliness was concerned, contrary to reports I'd heard from acquaintances who'd visited last year.

This street bin in Erice was in keeping with its surroundings - almost a work of art - an inspirational way to encourage tidiness and pride in one's surroundings.

Discreet Charms of Castelvetrano

This appealing sculpture is sited directly in front of the Police station. Such charm and elegance... I was also impressed to see that it was a meeting place for local teenagers - imagine that happening closer to home!

Impressive architectural detail on the side of a centrally-located building.


I may not have officially shopped but that didn't stop my window gazing and admiration. I loved this quirky yet chic interiors store. How cute is the face chair!

Food for Thought in Castelvetrano

I enjoyed this perfectly grilled local (Selinunte-caught) marmara, for lunch, at renowned foodie hotspot Lu Disiu. Not the most obvious place to find, it's located down an alleyway by the side of supermarket Conad.

I'm not sure how easily I would have arrived, had it not been for the lovely Maria who guided me there, after I had asked for directions - therein lies the food for thought...

Initially she said, apologetically, that she couldn't direct me but after a few moments thought, she came chasing after me, corrected my pronunciation - of the dialect words - and insisted on taking me right there, all-the-while congratulating me on my Italian and explaining that I had not placed the emphasis correctly on the last syllable of disiu. (While watching a cultural programme on Italian TV, I learnt that there is a different dialect every 3kms in Sicily). It made me think of the profound difference when asking for directions in a busy UK city, (usually) all signs of charm and patience absent, thanks to the hectic intensity and (self)pre-occupied, stressed-out rush of modern life.

Back at the restaurant, I discovered the meaning of its title: desiderio in Italian, alluding to all that one could want/wish for. It's a charming place, loved by the well-to-do business-lunching locals (and made even more interesting for visitors, who can enhance the experience by observing their style and behaviour). Understated with a smart-hunting theme, vegetarians are still well-looked after. The smiling young waiter (whom I believe is the son of the owner-chef) was charming, patient and helpful. When it came to choosing a light main course, he brought out a stainless steel platter simply strewn with the super-fresh local catch of the day.

I ended my meal with a richly-gorgeous espresso, cheekily accompanied by a (generous) glass of Sicilian grappa (my excuse was the need to soothe my sore throat - it worked - and to indulge in another local taste). As I'd been watching the centissimi, thanks to the appalling almost-parity exchange rate, it was a happy surprise to discover that I'd been offered the grappa and caffe. The bill came to 22 euros for the antipasto starter, fish with tomato salad and pesto garnish, mineral water, caffe and grappa.
Lu Disiu, Via XXIV Maggio 14, 91022 Castelvetrano Tel. 0924 907321

Relaxing in unspoilt Selinunte...

It's not just the magnificent ruins that make a trip to Selinunte worthwhile and memorable. The glorious beach, marina and naturally unspoilt ambience are increasingly rare gems.

A sweep of pristine golden sand, a welcoming bar, lack of crowds and an inviting azure sea are the perfect combination for an afternoon of relaxation, after climbing and exploring the vast site of the Temples.

If you want to provide your own lunch, there's a brilliant and friendly little grocery selling the freshest fruit and veg, alongside chilled drinks and other snacks. You can't miss it as you walk down the hill, beachwards, from the ruins.

The large, comfortable beachside bar will keep you well nourished when you prefer to be catered for. They'll even refresh your beer if a fly dares to take a dip inside your glass.

Should you decide to go further afield for lunch, La Conchiglia has a terrace with exquisite sea views, super-fresh seafood and fish - ideally partnered by a wonderfully refreshing, light and delicious house white. Service is warm, friendly and efficiently laid-back.

If you visit on a Saturday in late September, you might be lucky enough to chance upon one of the town's annual celebrations featuring local sardines or pane nero and tomatoes.

Ancient Unmissable Selinunte...

If you're ever in the vicinity of Selinunte, don't miss-out on a visit to the magnificent site of the largest archaeological ruins in Europe. Built by the Carthaginians, the temples are known only by initials and range from the impressive, relatively-recent reconstruction, to those that remain just as they fell.

One of the rare beauties of the site is that you are able to explore as and where you wish, without barriers or out-of-bounds limits.

If you're feeling fit, enjoy your explorations on foot but bear in mind the vast scale of the site and the high gradient you'll climb. At most times of the year, you'll also need to ensure you have sufficient sun protection due to the open exposure and strength of the bounteous Sicilian sun.

For those with less than desirable fitness levels, all aspects of the wondrous site can still be enjoyed, by taking a seat on one of the 'chauffeured' snaking tourist buggies that will provide access to all areas.

Another way to visit is to book a guided tour (many languages available), or to use the recorded version. Or, just explore and take-in the bounty, at your own pace and leisure. Allow a good couple of hours; if you need a rest during your exploration there are quite plentiful benches with a selection of wondrous panoramic views throughout the site.

The loo, located towards the highest point of the site is not only impressively clean but also must qualify for the facility with one of the world's most magnificent outlooks.

Wonders of Erice - the great and the small...

The perfect way to get the full perspective on the splendours of magnificent, mediaevel Erice is to buy the one day pass - for five euros - that will allow you access to all the churches and the museum.


I instantly fell for the beautiful, ancient church floor ceramics and thought how divine they would look replicated in my ideal home...



Climbing onwards and upwards, through the town, we reached the pinnacle - above the clouds - and gasped at the awe-inspiring views and serene beauty of the Torri Pepoli (the breathtaking 4 star hotel you see in the photo...)



After reveling in the glorious views, we descended the tranquil cobbled streets to continue our church visits. I couldn't help but smile at the middle-aged cherubs adorning the beautiful image of Madonna and Child.



Further inside, I discovered the exquisite fragment - in impeccable condition - of gold-embroidered 17th century cloth.

We were too busy wandering and enjoying to stop for lunch but we finally took a reviving refreshment break for a delicious caffe and spuntino; I couldn't resist one of the local speciality dolce - an exquisite dark-chocolate encased, almond-shaped, maraschino and almond paste delectably sweet treat. Unmissable but so squisito that it escaped my camera's view...

The quiet pleasures of Castelvetrano

Picture the scene, early October, the sun is shining infusing the town with a perfectly temperate 30 degrees. You've just enjoyed a deliciously healthy lunch of the freshest grilled local fish preceded by a colourful antipasti platter.

Contented and comfortably replete, you chance upon a delightful garden square with a refreshingly soothing fountain cascading in the centre. For company there are the local wise men, of a certain age, whiling away a happy hour with a post-prandial smoke and a chat. This was my last afternoon in Sicily earlier this month, partly spent in this pretty and tranquil garden in the centre of unspoilt Castelvetrano.

Leaving the pretty square I headed further up into the town, enjoying the sleepy streets, admiring the gentle green curves of the duomo ahead.