Fruits of Etna

It's not just through its dramatic omnipresence and black lava stone that magnificent Etna has an impact on the lives of locals. The particular climate it endows upon the surroundings are perfectly suited to producing prime varieties of vitamin and mineral-rich fruits.

If you look carefully at the central box in the photo, taken at Catania market on the last Saturday in November, you'll see the words Frutta dell'Etna. The fichi d'India, (anglicised as prickly pears rather than Indian figs) it houses, are an eastern Sicilian delicacy.

Related to the cactus family, they need to be peeled - and handled - with care, prior to being enjoyed. Available in a range of hues, some prize the white-fleshed variety above the peachier-toned examples. I relished every mouthful of the deep pinky-plum fruit I devoured.

The Full Sicilian

Oh yes! There's no stopping me... I liked it so much the first time around that I just had to go back. An (almost) irresistible offer at an alluring hotel in another part of the glorious Mediterranean island meant I just couldn't refuse. So, at the end of November, I repacked my summer clothing and headed off to Catania (Sicily's second city) for a five-day sojourn.

As soon as I saw the panoramic views of all-dominant Etna (from the window seat of my flight) a broad smile was evident on my face. Yippee! No more sodden, grey London but a beautifully temperate Sicilian, sun-blessed sky. Even the fact that there were no buses running into town (so I was forced to break my budget and splash-out on a cab) didn't really suppress my mood.

It was a brief (but 25 Euro ride instead of the 1 Euro bus fare) into town; I enjoyed chatting to kind, patient cabbie, Roberto and even learnt some enhanced pronunciation skills along the way.

No sooner had I deposited my bag in my attractive hotel room on the Via Etnea, I was bursting to get out of the door and explore. (I needed a bottle of mineral water subito, anyway...) Darkness had just fallen so it probably wasn't the best introduction to the bustling main street but soon I was to fall under the spell...

Pic shows the lava stone Fontana dell'Elefante on the central Piazza Duomo (just down from the Via Etnea).

Sicily's Rubbish...

I found the parts of Sicily I visited to be exemplary as far as cleanliness was concerned, contrary to reports I'd heard from acquaintances who'd visited last year.

This street bin in Erice was in keeping with its surroundings - almost a work of art - an inspirational way to encourage tidiness and pride in one's surroundings.

Discreet Charms of Castelvetrano

This appealing sculpture is sited directly in front of the Police station. Such charm and elegance... I was also impressed to see that it was a meeting place for local teenagers - imagine that happening closer to home!

Impressive architectural detail on the side of a centrally-located building.


I may not have officially shopped but that didn't stop my window gazing and admiration. I loved this quirky yet chic interiors store. How cute is the face chair!

Food for Thought in Castelvetrano

I enjoyed this perfectly grilled local (Selinunte-caught) marmara, for lunch, at renowned foodie hotspot Lu Disiu. Not the most obvious place to find, it's located down an alleyway by the side of supermarket Conad.

I'm not sure how easily I would have arrived, had it not been for the lovely Maria who guided me there, after I had asked for directions - therein lies the food for thought...

Initially she said, apologetically, that she couldn't direct me but after a few moments thought, she came chasing after me, corrected my pronunciation - of the dialect words - and insisted on taking me right there, all-the-while congratulating me on my Italian and explaining that I had not placed the emphasis correctly on the last syllable of disiu. (While watching a cultural programme on Italian TV, I learnt that there is a different dialect every 3kms in Sicily). It made me think of the profound difference when asking for directions in a busy UK city, (usually) all signs of charm and patience absent, thanks to the hectic intensity and (self)pre-occupied, stressed-out rush of modern life.

Back at the restaurant, I discovered the meaning of its title: desiderio in Italian, alluding to all that one could want/wish for. It's a charming place, loved by the well-to-do business-lunching locals (and made even more interesting for visitors, who can enhance the experience by observing their style and behaviour). Understated with a smart-hunting theme, vegetarians are still well-looked after. The smiling young waiter (whom I believe is the son of the owner-chef) was charming, patient and helpful. When it came to choosing a light main course, he brought out a stainless steel platter simply strewn with the super-fresh local catch of the day.

I ended my meal with a richly-gorgeous espresso, cheekily accompanied by a (generous) glass of Sicilian grappa (my excuse was the need to soothe my sore throat - it worked - and to indulge in another local taste). As I'd been watching the centissimi, thanks to the appalling almost-parity exchange rate, it was a happy surprise to discover that I'd been offered the grappa and caffe. The bill came to 22 euros for the antipasto starter, fish with tomato salad and pesto garnish, mineral water, caffe and grappa.
Lu Disiu, Via XXIV Maggio 14, 91022 Castelvetrano Tel. 0924 907321