Normal Service...

Pardon the blog-hiatus - 'normal' service will be resumed soon(ish)...

With Love from Gordon...

Valentine's night and the (um) perfect programme on ITV - get to know Gordon Brown's private world...via Piers Morgan's Life Stories (I was going to say intimately but it didn't quite go that far). Few recent programmes have attracted such pre-airing hype, so how did he do?

I can't honestly say that the programme really changed my opinion of our (un-elected) PM. He has always seemed like a decent man to me, very much 'what you see is what you get' as some of his attempts (YouTube-style) at being a smiley superstar show - merely causing cringing rather than cooing. I remain convinced that he is an extremely bright - probably kind - and decent man, more conducive to the role of friendship than leadership.

When asked about his romantic, beach-set, marriage proposal to love of his life, Sarah, one could tell that he was genuinely bashful and bashfully genuine. Exploring his feelings about the tragically short-lived existence of his first-born, Jennifer, wasn't easy to witness (nor to see Sarah in the audience, suffering along with him). It was heart-warming though to watch him revel in the joy he gains from his young sons, in spite of the fact that Fraser was born with cystic fibrosis.

I still can't quite get to grips with the fact that, despite his (ahem) magnificent prowess as former Chancellor of the Exchequer, he didn't see a hint of the protracted, far-reaching economic disasters looming. I'm still paying for my adherence to his recommendations of prudence...

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

A Natural Beauty

A favourite wonder, in my world, is the joy I take-in from the beauty of sunsets. I can rarely resist taking a photo when the opportunity arises. Last night featured a magnificent display of horizontal pink-and-blue layers - too bad I didn't have my camera on me to capture it!

However, this was another striking example that impressed its beauty upon me when I returned home at an opportune moment, recently... Where have you spotted your most impressive sunset?

Face of Hope in Haiti

The tears flowed again last night, as I watched the late news from ITN. The reporter was with a team of Fire-fighters from LA, one of whom determinedly stated:"I'm going to keep on looking until someone tells me to stop."

Viewers then had the profoundly moving privilege to watch, as extraordinary Jeanette was rescued, after six days buried in rubble. Her husband was determined that she was still alive and rescuers were able to confirm the fact, then to persevere painstakingly, for several hours, to eventually bring her out - with little more than injured fingers. Her strength, power and gratitude were overwhelming. As excellent correspondent, Bill Neely, stated: "life was bursting from this woman's lungs". One could barely believe what she had been through, as she burst into joyous song, and expressed her deepest gratitude. You can view the powerful scenes of rescue below:



Further images that will long remain in my mind were of the beautiful children, who walked together hand-in-hand, and with beaming smiles, thanked the team who gave them just one small bottle of water, each. Quite extraordinary, remarkable and profoundly moving.

First Kiss for a Happy New Year

Wishing you an (early) bright and happy start to the New Year - by way of W. Bougereau's 1890 il Primo Bacio (otherwise known as l'Amour et Psyché).

Brings back happy memories, for me, of wandering the cobbled streets of Citta di Castello (where I was studying Italian a few years ago) when I purchased this lovely (post card) image from the Duomo shop. Tanti Auguri! Buon Capodanno!


PS image in the public domain - see Wikimedia Commons - as the copyright has expired.

All the colours of the train

I'm not usually in the habit of extolling the virtues of graffiti. But I admit that I was rather taken with the colours and artwork, on the train, I spotted at Catania station... Che ne pensi?

Fruits of Etna

It's not just through its dramatic omnipresence and black lava stone that magnificent Etna has an impact on the lives of locals. The particular climate it endows upon the surroundings are perfectly suited to producing prime varieties of vitamin and mineral-rich fruits.

If you look carefully at the central box in the photo, taken at Catania market on the last Saturday in November, you'll see the words Frutta dell'Etna. The fichi d'India, (anglicised as prickly pears rather than Indian figs) it houses, are an eastern Sicilian delicacy.

Related to the cactus family, they need to be peeled - and handled - with care, prior to being enjoyed. Available in a range of hues, some prize the white-fleshed variety above the peachier-toned examples. I relished every mouthful of the deep pinky-plum fruit I devoured.

The Full Sicilian

Oh yes! There's no stopping me... I liked it so much the first time around that I just had to go back. An (almost) irresistible offer at an alluring hotel in another part of the glorious Mediterranean island meant I just couldn't refuse. So, at the end of November, I repacked my summer clothing and headed off to Catania (Sicily's second city) for a five-day sojourn.

As soon as I saw the panoramic views of all-dominant Etna (from the window seat of my flight) a broad smile was evident on my face. Yippee! No more sodden, grey London but a beautifully temperate Sicilian, sun-blessed sky. Even the fact that there were no buses running into town (so I was forced to break my budget and splash-out on a cab) didn't really suppress my mood.

It was a brief (but 25 Euro ride instead of the 1 Euro bus fare) into town; I enjoyed chatting to kind, patient cabbie, Roberto and even learnt some enhanced pronunciation skills along the way.

No sooner had I deposited my bag in my attractive hotel room on the Via Etnea, I was bursting to get out of the door and explore. (I needed a bottle of mineral water subito, anyway...) Darkness had just fallen so it probably wasn't the best introduction to the bustling main street but soon I was to fall under the spell...

Pic shows the lava stone Fontana dell'Elefante on the central Piazza Duomo (just down from the Via Etnea).

Discreet Charms of Castelvetrano

This appealing sculpture is sited directly in front of the Police station. Such charm and elegance... I was also impressed to see that it was a meeting place for local teenagers - imagine that happening closer to home!

Impressive architectural detail on the side of a centrally-located building.


I may not have officially shopped but that didn't stop my window gazing and admiration. I loved this quirky yet chic interiors store. How cute is the face chair!

Food for Thought in Castelvetrano

I enjoyed this perfectly grilled local (Selinunte-caught) marmara, for lunch, at renowned foodie hotspot Lu Disiu. Not the most obvious place to find, it's located down an alleyway by the side of supermarket Conad.

I'm not sure how easily I would have arrived, had it not been for the lovely Maria who guided me there, after I had asked for directions - therein lies the food for thought...

Initially she said, apologetically, that she couldn't direct me but after a few moments thought, she came chasing after me, corrected my pronunciation - of the dialect words - and insisted on taking me right there, all-the-while congratulating me on my Italian and explaining that I had not placed the emphasis correctly on the last syllable of disiu. (While watching a cultural programme on Italian TV, I learnt that there is a different dialect every 3kms in Sicily). It made me think of the profound difference when asking for directions in a busy UK city, (usually) all signs of charm and patience absent, thanks to the hectic intensity and (self)pre-occupied, stressed-out rush of modern life.

Back at the restaurant, I discovered the meaning of its title: desiderio in Italian, alluding to all that one could want/wish for. It's a charming place, loved by the well-to-do business-lunching locals (and made even more interesting for visitors, who can enhance the experience by observing their style and behaviour). Understated with a smart-hunting theme, vegetarians are still well-looked after. The smiling young waiter (whom I believe is the son of the owner-chef) was charming, patient and helpful. When it came to choosing a light main course, he brought out a stainless steel platter simply strewn with the super-fresh local catch of the day.

I ended my meal with a richly-gorgeous espresso, cheekily accompanied by a (generous) glass of Sicilian grappa (my excuse was the need to soothe my sore throat - it worked - and to indulge in another local taste). As I'd been watching the centissimi, thanks to the appalling almost-parity exchange rate, it was a happy surprise to discover that I'd been offered the grappa and caffe. The bill came to 22 euros for the antipasto starter, fish with tomato salad and pesto garnish, mineral water, caffe and grappa.
Lu Disiu, Via XXIV Maggio 14, 91022 Castelvetrano Tel. 0924 907321

Ancient Unmissable Selinunte...

If you're ever in the vicinity of Selinunte, don't miss-out on a visit to the magnificent site of the largest archaeological ruins in Europe. Built by the Carthaginians, the temples are known only by initials and range from the impressive, relatively-recent reconstruction, to those that remain just as they fell.

One of the rare beauties of the site is that you are able to explore as and where you wish, without barriers or out-of-bounds limits.

If you're feeling fit, enjoy your explorations on foot but bear in mind the vast scale of the site and the high gradient you'll climb. At most times of the year, you'll also need to ensure you have sufficient sun protection due to the open exposure and strength of the bounteous Sicilian sun.

For those with less than desirable fitness levels, all aspects of the wondrous site can still be enjoyed, by taking a seat on one of the 'chauffeured' snaking tourist buggies that will provide access to all areas.

Another way to visit is to book a guided tour (many languages available), or to use the recorded version. Or, just explore and take-in the bounty, at your own pace and leisure. Allow a good couple of hours; if you need a rest during your exploration there are quite plentiful benches with a selection of wondrous panoramic views throughout the site.

The loo, located towards the highest point of the site is not only impressively clean but also must qualify for the facility with one of the world's most magnificent outlooks.

Wonders of Erice - the great and the small...

The perfect way to get the full perspective on the splendours of magnificent, mediaevel Erice is to buy the one day pass - for five euros - that will allow you access to all the churches and the museum.


I instantly fell for the beautiful, ancient church floor ceramics and thought how divine they would look replicated in my ideal home...



Climbing onwards and upwards, through the town, we reached the pinnacle - above the clouds - and gasped at the awe-inspiring views and serene beauty of the Torri Pepoli (the breathtaking 4 star hotel you see in the photo...)



After reveling in the glorious views, we descended the tranquil cobbled streets to continue our church visits. I couldn't help but smile at the middle-aged cherubs adorning the beautiful image of Madonna and Child.



Further inside, I discovered the exquisite fragment - in impeccable condition - of gold-embroidered 17th century cloth.

We were too busy wandering and enjoying to stop for lunch but we finally took a reviving refreshment break for a delicious caffe and spuntino; I couldn't resist one of the local speciality dolce - an exquisite dark-chocolate encased, almond-shaped, maraschino and almond paste delectably sweet treat. Unmissable but so squisito that it escaped my camera's view...

The quiet pleasures of Castelvetrano

Picture the scene, early October, the sun is shining infusing the town with a perfectly temperate 30 degrees. You've just enjoyed a deliciously healthy lunch of the freshest grilled local fish preceded by a colourful antipasti platter.

Contented and comfortably replete, you chance upon a delightful garden square with a refreshingly soothing fountain cascading in the centre. For company there are the local wise men, of a certain age, whiling away a happy hour with a post-prandial smoke and a chat. This was my last afternoon in Sicily earlier this month, partly spent in this pretty and tranquil garden in the centre of unspoilt Castelvetrano.

Leaving the pretty square I headed further up into the town, enjoying the sleepy streets, admiring the gentle green curves of the duomo ahead.

I've been away...

... in case you hadn't noticed! Happy to be back... with apologies to all my lovely blogisphere friends for my lengthy disappearance! A lot has been happening; I won't subject you to the full saga but I have to tell you about my lovely trip to Sicily. Davvero bellissima!

My first real holiday in two-and-a-half years (no violin required); well worth waiting for and, perhaps, all the better after such a long time without a break that lasted more than a mere couple of days.

In late September, I flew into capital Palermo; it all started in friendly-style when the curly-headed, bronzed policeman at Passport Control welcomed me, asking where I was staying and for how long, the purpose of my visit and... "do you have a boyfriend?" (in italiano). It made me smile, especially as I didn't feel at my most beautiful-best after a scant one-and-a-half hours sleep, prior to a ridiculously early flight.

The beautiful drive to the hotel broadened my smile and kept me wide-awake as I took-in and admired the gorgeous panoramic scenery: verdant hills, a backdrop of mountains, views down to a calm azure sea, pretty pale-ochre villages and dramatic hill-top ruins.

The photo above shows one of the most dramatic and unmissable sights: the mediaevel, stone-built elevated town of Erice.

I'll be back to regale you with some more, very soon... promise!

Grey Beauty aka Winter Inspiration

I just rediscovered my photo, taken a couple of years ago in Bella Venezia, in January. Grey - yes; a thing of beauty and inspiration, definitely!

Chichester travelogue: Pallant House Gallery

Photo credit: Susie MacMurray from susiemacmurray.co.uk

I'd been looking forward to my visit to the prestigious Gulbenkian award-winning (2007) Pallant House, for a long while. Arriving at the elegant exterior, mid-way down a charming characterful street, I wasn't disappointed at my first view.

Armed with my floor plan, I went upstairs, starting in the historic collections. One of the most impressive sights, in the first room, was the gilded bronze bust of Charles I, created by Hubert le Sueur, in 1637. As I progressed through the rooms, I was intrigued to notice chic leather chairs with strategically placed pine cones (not for artistic reasons but to prevent the temptation for visitors to rest on them).

Moving out of the historic collections, I came upon the striking original (walnut?) staircase, contrastingly complemented by Nina Saunders amazing velvet fabric creations. I had to smile when I noticed her limited edition (of 50) velvet dustpan: Mr William Morris' Pan for the Application of Utilitarian Cleaning available to order, for the sum of £360. I also loved Susie MacMurray's highly inventive After 'Shell' with mussel shells and deep red velvet dramatically combining to form unusual but exquisite tulips.

Speaking with the empassioned guides, I learnt that much of the collection had been donated by Walter Hussey, former Dean of Chichester Cathedral, in 1981, on condition that it be made available for public view. Charles Kearley's remarkable bequest (1988) contributes the mainstay of prominent European masterpieces in the collection.

The highlights for me, were varied and many, including: Antony Gormley's simple elegant, stunning mild steel rod sculpture Trajectory Field III (2002, on loan); Richard Hamilton's Swingeing London (sic), a 1967 piece depicting the hand-cuffed Mick Jagger and Robert Fraser as they were driven away after a drugs raid; Eileen Agar's simply beautiful Italian Girl (1927); Julian Trevelyan's Absentee Pig (1943); George Bracque's stunning, vivid blue The Bird (1949); Salvador Dali's hot-hued Hawaii Suite II (1973).

I loved the temporary Lee Miller and Friends exhibit (runs until 29th March '09) packed with wonderfully evocative and iconic photography (taken mostly in the 1940s and '50s), including everyday moments shared with Pablo Picasso and his family and Jean Cocteau.

Chichester travelogue: Cloisters Restaurant (@ the Cathedral)

After a serene and inspirational visit to the wonderful Cathedral, on a drizzly weekday lunchtime, it was a welcome sight to find the recently restored Cloisters restaurant, adjacent to the Cathedral shop.

There was a great choice of hot dishes - including a good range of filled baked potatoes with salad, a traditional roast with all-the-works and pan-fried 'catch-of-the-day' Mediterranean style (mackerel again - must be very well-caught in the vicinity)... Also a decent serve-yourself salad bar, fresh home-made soup and a plethora of snacks (sweet and savoury). I opted for a colourful and well-cooked selection of roasted veg (might not sound exciting but they were delicious and perfectly hit the spot) at just £1.50, for a generous bowl.

The atmosphere is cosy and attractive with plenty of light pouring-in (even on a relatively dull day) and a very pleasant outlook on the gardens and ancient stone walls. Staff were friendly, helpful and efficient (tables were cleared rapidly for those who were waiting). There was a congenial buzz with contented visitors of all ages - from toddlers to senior citizens, students and ladies who lunch. Essentially self-service, although if your dish requires lengthier preparation (eg a toastie) you'll be given a numbered paddle and it will be delivered to your table when it's ready.

Recommended for price, quality, atmosphere, and taste...

Chichester travelogue: Chichester Cathedral

Oh, the wonders of Chichester Cathedral! It's extraordinary; since 1108, it has been a remarkable presence. As soon as I entered through the doors, warmly greeted by the two duty volunteers, I felt the serenity of the ancient site embrace me.

I discovered that there are over 500 volunteers - such is the affection that the Cathedral is held in, reflecting its unique status. Those I encountered were passionate about their role and contribution, and the privilege they felt to be able to work in such a splendid place.

My highlights - other than the overall experience - were the magnificent rich-hued (almost glowing) stained-glass window created by Marc Chagall (based on Psalm 150 and commissioned by Dean Walter Hussey in 1978), the beautiful fragment of 2nd century Roman Mosaic - now under glass - (re-discovered in 1966) and the exquisite Lady Chapel (in the process of restoration) with its impressive red-and-blue line detailing and sublime green-and-white ceiling. Also the richly vibrant Piper Tapestry (at the High Altar) which was woven in France (created in 1966) making a remarkably thought-provoking impact in its modernism - contrasting (positively) with its ancient setting.

As my visit was coming to a close I was surprised to notice, close to the exit, that composer (and former choirmaster at St Paul's School) Gustav Holst was buried there, in 1934. I was also charmed to read the collection of enthusiastic letters from young (primary school) visitors who treasured their special Cathedral experience.

Chichester travelogue: The Place Bar and Grill

There are several routes into the Bar and Restaurant; it has its own independent access to the side of North Street and two entrances within the Ship Hotel. Enter through the main hotel door and, to your left, you're greeted by the welcoming sight of a roaring log fire (in winter!) alongside inviting squashy sofas in modern neutral tones. Walk past, or through, the bar and you're in the spacious, airily stylish restaurant.

I chose to sit in the strikingly attractive, subtly-lit conservatory, looking onto the quiet side street. The Lloyd Loom (style) seating was both chic and comfortable.

I opted for the evening two-course table d'hote menu, at £10. My starter of fresh grilled sardine was inventively filled with ricotta and accompanied by green salad; it was light, tasty and the perfect size for an appetiser. I wasn't sure about my main of pan-fried mackerel when I ordered it but it proved to be deeply-delicious, packed with flavour, as fresh as could be, complemented by crushed new potatoes, black olive, fresh tomato concassé and salad leaves. (Note to self: "must try to recreate at home"...) The busy staff provided excellent, efficient service and remained smiling and attentive throughout.

A change is as good as a rest...

It's been quite a while since I had a break, so I decided it was time for a short trip. I found a brilliant offer at the 3 star, Grade II-listed Ship Hotel in Chichester, so my destination was decided. At just a short train journey out (from the edge) of London, it was practical enough to do in a day-and-a-half. I packed a lot in... and returned refreshed and de-stressed.

If you're tempted to visit the old walled West Sussex city, I especially recommend Chichester Cathedral, the award-winning Pallant House Gallery and the independent shops in and around North and South streets.