Chichester travelogue: Pallant House Gallery

Photo credit: Susie MacMurray from susiemacmurray.co.uk

I'd been looking forward to my visit to the prestigious Gulbenkian award-winning (2007) Pallant House, for a long while. Arriving at the elegant exterior, mid-way down a charming characterful street, I wasn't disappointed at my first view.

Armed with my floor plan, I went upstairs, starting in the historic collections. One of the most impressive sights, in the first room, was the gilded bronze bust of Charles I, created by Hubert le Sueur, in 1637. As I progressed through the rooms, I was intrigued to notice chic leather chairs with strategically placed pine cones (not for artistic reasons but to prevent the temptation for visitors to rest on them).

Moving out of the historic collections, I came upon the striking original (walnut?) staircase, contrastingly complemented by Nina Saunders amazing velvet fabric creations. I had to smile when I noticed her limited edition (of 50) velvet dustpan: Mr William Morris' Pan for the Application of Utilitarian Cleaning available to order, for the sum of £360. I also loved Susie MacMurray's highly inventive After 'Shell' with mussel shells and deep red velvet dramatically combining to form unusual but exquisite tulips.

Speaking with the empassioned guides, I learnt that much of the collection had been donated by Walter Hussey, former Dean of Chichester Cathedral, in 1981, on condition that it be made available for public view. Charles Kearley's remarkable bequest (1988) contributes the mainstay of prominent European masterpieces in the collection.

The highlights for me, were varied and many, including: Antony Gormley's simple elegant, stunning mild steel rod sculpture Trajectory Field III (2002, on loan); Richard Hamilton's Swingeing London (sic), a 1967 piece depicting the hand-cuffed Mick Jagger and Robert Fraser as they were driven away after a drugs raid; Eileen Agar's simply beautiful Italian Girl (1927); Julian Trevelyan's Absentee Pig (1943); George Bracque's stunning, vivid blue The Bird (1949); Salvador Dali's hot-hued Hawaii Suite II (1973).

I loved the temporary Lee Miller and Friends exhibit (runs until 29th March '09) packed with wonderfully evocative and iconic photography (taken mostly in the 1940s and '50s), including everyday moments shared with Pablo Picasso and his family and Jean Cocteau.

Chichester travelogue: Cloisters Restaurant (@ the Cathedral)

After a serene and inspirational visit to the wonderful Cathedral, on a drizzly weekday lunchtime, it was a welcome sight to find the recently restored Cloisters restaurant, adjacent to the Cathedral shop.

There was a great choice of hot dishes - including a good range of filled baked potatoes with salad, a traditional roast with all-the-works and pan-fried 'catch-of-the-day' Mediterranean style (mackerel again - must be very well-caught in the vicinity)... Also a decent serve-yourself salad bar, fresh home-made soup and a plethora of snacks (sweet and savoury). I opted for a colourful and well-cooked selection of roasted veg (might not sound exciting but they were delicious and perfectly hit the spot) at just £1.50, for a generous bowl.

The atmosphere is cosy and attractive with plenty of light pouring-in (even on a relatively dull day) and a very pleasant outlook on the gardens and ancient stone walls. Staff were friendly, helpful and efficient (tables were cleared rapidly for those who were waiting). There was a congenial buzz with contented visitors of all ages - from toddlers to senior citizens, students and ladies who lunch. Essentially self-service, although if your dish requires lengthier preparation (eg a toastie) you'll be given a numbered paddle and it will be delivered to your table when it's ready.

Recommended for price, quality, atmosphere, and taste...

Chichester travelogue: The Place Bar and Grill

There are several routes into the Bar and Restaurant; it has its own independent access to the side of North Street and two entrances within the Ship Hotel. Enter through the main hotel door and, to your left, you're greeted by the welcoming sight of a roaring log fire (in winter!) alongside inviting squashy sofas in modern neutral tones. Walk past, or through, the bar and you're in the spacious, airily stylish restaurant.

I chose to sit in the strikingly attractive, subtly-lit conservatory, looking onto the quiet side street. The Lloyd Loom (style) seating was both chic and comfortable.

I opted for the evening two-course table d'hote menu, at £10. My starter of fresh grilled sardine was inventively filled with ricotta and accompanied by green salad; it was light, tasty and the perfect size for an appetiser. I wasn't sure about my main of pan-fried mackerel when I ordered it but it proved to be deeply-delicious, packed with flavour, as fresh as could be, complemented by crushed new potatoes, black olive, fresh tomato concassé and salad leaves. (Note to self: "must try to recreate at home"...) The busy staff provided excellent, efficient service and remained smiling and attentive throughout.

Chichester travelogue: The Ship Hotel

In spite of extensive recent interior refurbishments, this attractive Grade II Georgian listed building is in keeping with its surroundings and retains a smart presence. With rooms on three floors, take the stairs and you'll be pleasantly surprised by the elegant sweeping 18th century Adam staircase; on the walls - of the first floor - you'll discover memorabilia dating back to the time of the original owner, Admiral George Murray, who served with Nelson.

Bedrooms are sympathetically restored, with an unobtrusive modern touch, in warm neutral tones. There's a flat-screen TV on the wall, comfy chairs to relax in, a good supply of quality wooden hangers (although only wall hooks, rather than a closed wardrobe) to hang your clothes on and a sleek, efficient kettle together with tea and coffee supplies to prepare hot drinks with.

The bathroom is simple and white, comfortable enough (and very clean) with courtesy (ginseng-enriched) products. Rooms still use a traditional key system and have a name as well as a number. I was concerned that sounds from the (quite noisy) old-fashioned, gate-style, lift might be intrusive but happily that wasn't the case. Views from my window (at the back of the hotel) were of buildings and the car park with verdant hills in the distance.

Reception staff were efficient, smiling, helpful, welcoming and obliging. Well-deserved of its three star rating; decent value (even better if you get a special offer deal) and a very pleasant, convenient place to stay in the centre of Chichester and for access to other parts of West Sussex.

A change is as good as a rest...

It's been quite a while since I had a break, so I decided it was time for a short trip. I found a brilliant offer at the 3 star, Grade II-listed Ship Hotel in Chichester, so my destination was decided. At just a short train journey out (from the edge) of London, it was practical enough to do in a day-and-a-half. I packed a lot in... and returned refreshed and de-stressed.

If you're tempted to visit the old walled West Sussex city, I especially recommend Chichester Cathedral, the award-winning Pallant House Gallery and the independent shops in and around North and South streets.